11 March 2018

Ilaria Lepore AW18 at London Fashion Week

Titled 'Whats The Next Evil'  Ilaria Lepore's AW18 gives a visual insight into the tribal power of the roots.

By using black exclusively in her designs, this accentuates the shape and the cut of the pieces, as well as experimenting with shadows and silhouettes.

Using extra long belts and ropes as accessories, Ilaria created erotic undertones in an androgenous collection

Oversized chunky wool cardigans are paired with deconstructed trousers.

Taking the peacock as a symbol of renewal and transformation, peacock feathers adorn the side of trousers and cuffs of sleeves

Precious wools and leathers represent a myriad of changes in the human consciousness as they surge together like a peacock creature. The shearling overcoat represents the designer's non conformist attitude to move away from the mass.

Wool velvet bend the boundaries and warps Ilaria's own identity in flamboyant nature inspired shapes

Footwear by Grinders
Photographer Lucie Rox

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Ones To Watch present: Kristel Kuslapuu AW18 at London Fashion Week

Drawing inspiration from cliches and irony, Kristel Kuslapuu describes herself as a kinky knitwear designer from Estonia and her designs as loud and trashy.

She flirts with sculptural forms, bold colours and unique patterns.

She is a self confessed maximalist sharing provocative messages and going beyond the limits of the traditional gender conformity.

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Jamie Wei Huang AW18 Menswear at London Fashion Week.

Titled 'To All the Hearts That Dream' AW 18 is inspired by 1990's Hong Kong, the golden era of the entertainment industry. The legendary figures of the industry revolutionised a new peak. The time was driven by courage, deep longing, and that almost young and foolish fearlessness hearts.A time that feels like it wasn't all that long ago, but the nostalgia it brings is a reminder of what's been missing now.

 . Jamie expresses this with a bold colour palette, youthful denims and tartan prints. Abstract design on green jumper is akin to a crisp falling out of a packet.

.  Trousers are adorned with belts around the knees and ankles

The collection is a dedication to those who dreams, and are stubborn enough to still believe in it.
 AW 18 is a collection about passion and dreams.

Jewellery by "Fang" A London based jewellery designer and a final year student at London College of Fashion. The young rising star is developing her work by exploring sensual and organic shapes and the relationship between natural materials and sensitive techniques.
Photography by Simon Armstrong
Model: Kei Chun Hoi
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3 March 2018

Malan Breton AW18 menswear at London Fashion Week

Titled 'Omega', this last letter of the Greek alphabet signifies the end of a journey to one’s clarity and self.

The collection has a theatrical flair with inspiration drawn from Edwardian Tarot, the wizard Merlin,

 and  Chinese astrology

But it also shows a darker side with inspiration from the myth of the four horsemen of the apocalypse- . The four riders symbolizing Conquest, War, Famine, and Death.

 “This collection, has been a journey of self-realisation, a point of gaining ones hope back in humanity. Rebuilding one's shell, one’s armour, one’s heart. Love lost, valour, and watching gluttony, and greed change humanity for the worst....” – Malan Breton

Photos by Simon Armstrong
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27 January 2018

Louis Gabriel Nouchi AW18 Collection at Men's Paris Fashion Week

Louis Gabriel Nouchi takes a contemporary take on cut and silhouette

Loose knitted sleeves cover jackets and coats' own sleeves.

Seams on tops are partially unstiched

Colour palette is neutral shades of grey, black and white colour pops of red

Photography by Emilie Gomez
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Marosbaran AW18 Collection at Men's Paris Fashion Week

Titled 'The Imperial Phase', the Slovakian fashion designer and artist's AW18 collections focuses on menswear and definition of the paradox

The paradox of using feminine fabrics on masculine clothing such as floral lace on a bomber jacket and  hoodie

the delicate plisse pleat in pale yellow on shorts and a hoodie, and winter white on collarless shirts

and the diaphanous tulle in bright red and turquoise

Metallics give a soft sheen to boxer hoodies like molten liquid.

Prints include a bold floral print on coats and short suits, a more subtle paisley jacquard on shorts, trousers and long waistcoat and comic style hero print on leggings.

Edges are frayed on shorts and knitwear

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Ernest W. Baker AW18 Collection at Men's Paris Fashion Week

The founder's Grandfather , Ernest W. Baker, and early Detroit ad man, serves as a muse for the brand's identity.

 Studying his personal journals from the 70's & 80's were the starting point for the Autumn Winter 18 collection.

A precise consideration for colors and feelings are referenced as an intention is made to create garments that feel as if they were taken from Ernest's closet.

 Shades of brown leather, tonal checks and handmade sweaters in a chunky mustard yellow are used in reference to a palette of the 70's,

 while the injection of color in purple velvet give a more optimistic feeling of the 80's.

The aesthetic is then taken forward, drawing from the perspective of David Lynch. Inspired from the surrealistic world developed in his "Twin Peaks" series, a link is established between classic European dress and a western American spirit.

 Long, oversized coating is an important aspect in the collection, creating a sense of mysteriousness.

 John Wayne hats, tuxedo shirts and classic check patterns are a nod to an Americana style,

while the structured blazers, ascots and velvet tailoring are inspired from a classic European elegance.

 Although the looks present a pure rigidity, there is a sense of irony in each of them, with an intention to convert the model into an Ernest character playing in the Twin Peaks series.

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