16 January 2017

Ports 1961 AW17 Menswear - Army of Love

The word “love” is the same in traditional Chinese and Japanese characters.

For the Ports 1961 fall-winter 2017-2018 collection, Milan Vukmirovic also prints “love” in English, Arabic, French and Russian on sportswear hoodies.

Not only is this collection younger than in past seasons, it is also more minimalist. Informed by the artistic director’s early years — the early Nineties, the energy of the London scene, and the music and images of a time when the idea of a new century elicited excitement and a hint of apprehension — it also reflects the lightning changes in today’s world.

 Ports 1961 men are armed for whatever the day brings.

In the city, they sport protective clothing inspired by urban work wear. Reflective bands stripe parkas borrowed from construction sites,

Bombers are reversible, coats have slit sleeves and trousers are piped,

 Sweaters are chunky, hoods removable and shirtfronts quilted.

Blousons are studded with buckles and harness straps,

 The cuts are clean, ample, transformable and efficient. The wardrobe is assertive, right down to its colors. Two-toned silhouettes, blocked in contrasting shades of black, grey and white.

 Plus pops of  orange , yellow and red, which infuse the collection with buoyant energy.

Stripes give the collection its tempo.

There’s also the camouflage print motif Milan Vukmirovic has loved forever.

 Otherwise, materials are primarily sober, solid and thick, often with raw edging. Robust cotton canvas, deep diagonal twills, dense fleece and real nylon underscore the virility of this chic sportswear offering.

But for all its masculinity, the collection has lots of charm and heart. The white shirt – a house icon – is embellished with strategically placed red embroidery representing that vital organ, which sits precisely over the breast of young love warriors in search of emotional rescue.

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11 January 2017

KTZ AW17 menswear at London Fashion Week

KTZ AW17 menswear show at London Fashion Week
Military meets urban. Logos include Seventeen and Rambo Child

Paisley like print peeps out of torn outerwear

A touch of S&M with leather, lace ups and girdle like belts

Knitwear of camouflage patchwork

Colour Palette includes powerful monochrome,

And the more subdued military khakis

Video of the show
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BERTHOLD Autumn/Winter 17 Presentation at London Fashion Week

Titled Asylum, the collection explores the rhythm of restriction  by scratches, scars and stitches on the skin, body braces and athletic tape coiled around arms and legs..

Proportions push and pull.

Dimensions meet and diverge.

Wide, desolate hospital corridors and angular shadows inspire a larger, languid silhouette for tunics and winter coats.

Thick rough bandages wrapping heads and masking identities translate into volumes delimited yet energetic. 

Taut body gloves are worn over wide leg trousers and sportif jackets have elongated, exaggerated sleeves.

Elbows are spliced open

Skinny trousers are split at the knee or corseted against the torso

Fuzzy, dimple, crisp – textures are taken from torn, soft leather and papers left folded and aged over time.

Rich felted wools and pitted technical fabrics are paired with fluffy mohair and easy cotton suiting.

Colours are polar white, heavy black and bruise.

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